Maggie Brown, the Myrtle Avenue comfort-food spot on the border between Clinton Hill and Ft. Greene, has become a popular attraction for nearby Pratt students and locals who pack the summer garden to sip spiked frozen lemonade. While better known for their fried chicken and ribs, we braved Maggie Brown on a busy Sunday morning, hanging in there for a 45 minute wait which climaxed with our party of five crammed into a table meant for four. Coffee is strong and refilled frequently, albeit in chipped mugs that typify the hodgepodge ambiance evoked by Maggie Brown's heavily textured vintage wallpaper, chandeliers, taxidermy, flea market art, and fireplace.
Of the egg dishes, which come with searingly hot home fries and a choice of white or wheat toast, the "opa omelet" is most audacious, with thick bits of prosciutto, sheep's milk cheese, and basil accentuated by entire caramelized cloves of garlic. The "oma omelet," stuffed with goat cheese, salmon, and leeks, is tastier and not as greasy. A vegetarian Mexican lasagna layers corn tortillas with grilled vegetables and a spicy tomato-based sauce that is good for sopping up with extra pieces of toast on the table.
One leaves full and fairly satisfied, but small disappointments – overly dressed salads, running out of the reputed homemade biscuits & raspberry butter halfway through brunch hour, being crowded to the point of slight discomfort – make an off-peak visit seem like the smart move.
Maggie Brown is located at 455 Myrtle Avenue, Brooklyn, NY. 718.643.7001.
