Until those tax refunds come through we won't be flying to Paris to drink wine, but it may be possible to trick ourselves into believing we're at the real thing at La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels, the New York offshoot of a venue of the same name in France. Run by the team behind Experimental Cocktail Club, the Little Italy charmer boasts nearly 600 wines—of which 70% are French, naturellement—by the bottle, some dispensed in those futuristic enomatic machines. Dozens of wines by the glass are also available.
Accompanying nibbles would be at home in Europe as well, including housemade charcuterie like duck liver confit, chicken liver mousse and lamb terrine. More involved small plates include braised octopus ($13) with pickled pearl onions and pink pepper; toad in a hole ($12) with truffle butter, mushrooms and cured ham; and beef tartare ($14) with tomato confit and mustard. They'll also do cheese plates stocked with French fromage, decadent desserts or just some simple housemade pickles.
The design has a sexy, intimate thing going on, with exposed brick walls, plush cushioned seats and lots of dark colors. Look out for the piano at the front of the bar, a nod to its sister instrument in France; resist the urge to offer your version of "La Vie en Rose" after a few glasses of rosé.
249 Centre Street, 212-343-3660; compagnienyc.com
