It could be argued that all pizza is by definition "ethnic," but some pizzeria fare is especially deserving of this designation. Ethnic Pizza Patrol strives to find unique cultural interpretations of this classic New York City food. Expect piping hot tips about New York City pizzerias that feature an ethnic twist on pizza or combine a pizzeria with another concept, i.e. a taco joint; or manage to do all of the above.
Once this storefront housed El Guaton, a pizzeria that showcased gutbusting Chilean sandwiches. A recent stroll down Roosevelt Ave. revealed it had been replaced by La Chonta Pizzeria. At first blush it looked like a slice joint, but a glimpse of a small list of Ecuadorean specials turned disappointment into intrigue.
La Chonta trumpets its pizzeria identity, as carefully arranged copies of Pizza Magazine indicate. That identity falls within the purview of neighborhood slice joint. As such it’s good, but one wishes the pizza would embrace the owner’s Ecuadorean heritage. Why not go whole hog and offer slices stuffed with hornado, instead of the pineapple-topped specimens sitting forlornly in the case.
Lack of creativity in the slice department was easily forgiven after ordering freshly made ceviche de camaron, a bracing chilled soup of shrimp, onions and tomato pulp. A subsequent visit on a colder day called for a hotter shrimp showcase: sango de camaron. Think of an earthy, comforting lentil soup with ground plantain standing in for lentils and plenty of shrimp.
By the way, that reddish looking veggie on the sign isn't a plum tomato. It's a chonta, a palm tree fruit native to South America. La Chonta’s proprietress says it's especially high in protein. If you’re lucky, she’ll have some ripe ones on hand to boil up and blend into a frosty shake. The golden-rod colored concoction tastes like a combination of corn and pumpkin.
La Chonta, 68-14 Roosevelt Ave., Woodside, 718-651-3179
