Recently, we've noticed we were wandering the wine store aisles trying to find that next new, thrilling wine (the kind we'd be thinking about for days) and we'd pick a bottle off the shelf and turn it around. Not for marketers' flowery language ("soft velvet texture"), but for something much more telling - a statement of philosophy in winemaking, grape growing and business standards. We were looking to see who imported this wine.
There are different approaches to picking wines: Odds you'll remember the name and vintage of a wine you've read about are slim. One could ask the storeowner for a suggestion, but what if he's trying to unload a case that just won’t sell? One can look for the aisle tags that scream that the wine scored 92 points, which is fine if you share the same tastes as Robert Parker, but you’ll likely pay a premium for it. It’s not like we have a trusted and knowledgeable friend to walk around with us and recommend wines we may like. Or do we?
Few people in the wine industry are as passionate and knowledgeable about wine as importers. They scour the globe seeking out wines to add to their portfolio that speak to their passion and values – whether it be artisanal wines that express the terroir of the land or biodynamic producers. Knowing a little about an importer's philosophy and, even more importantly, finding an importer that shares your own, will make navigating the wine store as easy as a twist of the wrist. And increase the chances that you find a wine you like tremendously.
So here is our round-up -- a collection of New York importers who consistently deliver a portfolio of interesting, quality wines:
Michael Skurnik: One of our favorite importers, Skurnik wines are often smaller producers that create classic style wines (or wines that express the terrior of the region). We choose them for their great selection of growers of Champagne and the Terry Theise collection of German and Austrian wines. They have just added the Daniel Johnnes (Wine Director for Daniel Boulud's Dinex Group) portfollio, which we look forward to tasting. This is an overall great choice if you are looking to try something a little different.
Winebow: When we want Italian, we turn to Winebow for their great selections. The general philosophy of this importer is to bring in smaller producers that focus on a non-interventionalistic approach to winemaking. The Leonardo Classico collections are always impressive.
Lauber Imports: While not cheap, we go Lauber when searching for white Burgundy. They have one of the best selections of Cote de Beaune producers.
Robert Kacher: A very hands-on Bobby Kacher works alongside the growers and producers on many of his wines to ensure we’re getting the good stuff. This is our pick for great inexpensive wines from the Langudedoc in France. The $10 reds are a great value and delicious.
While we can’t say that this method has never failed us, it has given us confidence to try something new and have a general idea of what we are in store for. Until they offer free samples before you buy, we’ll keep checking the back label.
Photograph: Brothers Michael and Harmon of Michael Skurnik Wines photographed in 1963 (we found it on their website and couldn't resist).
